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Wall-to-wall carpet is cut and fitted to the exact shape of your room, including closets, alcoves, and irregular angles, so there are no gaps or exposed subfloor at the edges.
We use a power stretcher to pull the carpet taut over the pad before securing it, which keeps the surface flat and resists rippling and wrinkling as the carpet settles over time. Tack strip is set around the room perimeter and seams are placed along low-traffic lines and away from doorways, so transitions between carpet pieces stay as unnoticeable as possible.
Unlike carpet tile, wall-to-wall carpet is installed as broadloom rolls joined by seams rather than a grid of squares, giving the room one continuous look from wall to wall.
New pad goes down under every wall-to-wall install, since reusing old pad under new carpet shortens the life of both.
We measure every wall, closet, and angle, then plan seam placement to minimize visible joins and reduce waste. We also check the subfloor, install tack strip around the perimeter, and lay fresh pad so the carpet has an even base.
The carpet is stretched into place with a power stretcher and hooked onto the tack strip for a tight, even fit.
We trim edges cleanly around closets, doorways, and vents, then finish transitions so the floor looks tidy throughout.
We walk the finished room with you to check seams, edges and transitions before calling the job complete.
A properly power-stretched carpet stays smooth and tight instead of loosening or rippling within the first year.
Closets and small irregular spaces are fitted with the same care as the main room, not left as an afterthought.
Seam lines are planned and placed so they fall where foot traffic and light are least likely to show them.
Wall-to-wall carpet is installed edge to edge across a room using as few seams as the room’s dimensions allow, which is what gives it that continuous, uniform look compared to modular carpet tile. Seam placement is planned in advance so seams run toward the main light source and stay out of high-traffic pivot points such as doorways.
Larger homes rarely have just one room of carpet, and each doorway is a decision point. Where wall-to-wall carpet meets hardwood, tile, or laminate in an adjoining room, we set a transition strip sized to the height difference between the two floors so the edge sits flat instead of curling or catching underfoot. Between two carpeted rooms, we look at whether a continuous run or a doorway seam makes more sense for the pile and traffic pattern before cutting.
On install day, small furniture, lamps, and area rugs should be cleared from the rooms ahead of time. We handle moving the heavier pieces, such as sofas, bed frames, and dressers, within the same room as work progresses, then reset them once the carpet is stretched and trimmed. Emptying closets and any built-in shelving beforehand keeps the crew working efficiently and avoids delays.
Before installation day, a Shop at Home visit lets you compare carpet samples in each room, and the carpet padding page explains how underlay changes the feel underfoot. If old flooring has to come up first, see carpet removal. For basements and offices where modules make more sense, compare carpet tile installation. We install wall-to-wall carpet in Belleville and Sydenham as well as Kingston.
Wall-to-wall carpet comes in broadloom rolls that are seamed together to cover the whole room as one continuous surface, while carpet tile is made of separate modular squares. Wall-to-wall gives a smoother look with fewer visible joins.
Yes. We measure each wall and angle individually, including closets and alcoves, and cut the carpet to match the actual shape of the room rather than a standard rectangle.
Power-stretching pulls the carpet taut before it is secured to the tack strip. Without it, carpet installed by hand alone tends to loosen and ripple over time, especially in larger rooms.
We plan seam locations before cutting, running them toward the main light source and parallel to foot traffic, and keeping them out of doorways where they would cross underfoot.